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Radio Control Build

This is a simple 2.4MHz R/C kit build. The kit cost me £35 +P&P. I ordered over the net and had it the next morning. This kit can control three locos by having channels used as speed controls and as forward and reverse settings.

This is the bag of bits that arrives in an A5 jiffy bag. The top bag contains the potentiometers, knobs and switches. The centre bag contains the actual transmitter module. The bottom bag contains the ABS plastic box the lid of which screws on.

The Bags of Bits

As supplied the kit comes with nice swishy rubber knobs -which I hate. So I have used my favourite knob -normally called a "stove" type. There is a drilling plan for the position of the holes and the sizes are all metric. The box coming from Hammond of Canada -has imperial dimensions... It has a slight taper from the lid to the base which does make it easier to hold -but measure from the base. I have stuck on letters to explain the functions to "younger" operators. The top knobs are locos 1 to 3 the switches are Forward, Off and Reverse. The master on/off button and the BIND button are on the side as the Acceleration or Inertia control. Which is used only with caution on a G3 loco.

The Box

Here is the underside of the box, you can see the potentiometers and switches. I have looped all the exteriors of the potentiometers to a common earth point. This is not required, but is more a hangover from building other electronics. The wiring diagram can be seen on the left. Even if you cannot read resistor colour coding there are ten of one type and two of another and their colours are given, but you may need a magnifying glass...

The Box Underside

Here the pins are wired according to the diagram and the colours marked on the plan. It is not that hard to do -more fiddly than anything else. Red are the positive feed leads to the Potentiometers and switches, the coloured leads will connect to the pins of the transmitter and the black leads are the negative connections.

Technicolour Spaghetti

Now the leads have to trimmed to size and connected to the pins on the transmitter. The instructions say that you may solder directly to the pins and fine heat shrink is provided for this and this is perfectly acceptable. I prefer to use a crimp connection that I can remove for testing.

The Connections

The final and most frustrating part is cramming the transmitter, all the wiring plus a PP3 battery in the box and getting it to close... The two loops are used for wrist and neck straps.

The Tardis Principle

The only real problem I have had with it is the fact that you cannot BIND with the Inertia control set to anything other than fully "off". I use a NiMH version of a PP3 and battery life is around 5 hours.

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Page last modified on March 19, 2018, at 08:48 AM